Canoeing the Dordogne past Beynac

Beynac from the river

The Château de Beynac stands more than 150 metres above the Dordogne, which is a number that means very little until you are looking up at it from a canoe. This stretch of river runs past La Roque-Gageac, under Castelnaud on its own rock and then under Beynac, and the two castles that faced each other across the Hundred Years War frontier arrive one after the other on the water. Nobody paddles into a castle: what the river buys is the elevation the other way round. Pair it with an hour inside, which is what the entry ticket covers, and one day carries both views.

The three-hour rental

around twenty-nine euros, rated 4.7 from 274 ratings — the most-rated listing on this site. Three hours from the base at Vitrac in a canoe or kayak, self-guided, past La Roque-Gageac and Castelnaud and under the Beynac cliff, with a shuttle back to base at the end and free parking there while you are on the water. Departures run between 09:30 and 14:00, every day. Dogs are allowed on board. There is no guide and no food, so bring what you want to eat. Rebecca, from the United Kingdom, called it the best trip of the holiday; Jodie, also from the United Kingdom, said the views could not be put into words; Peter, from the Netherlands, found it well organised from start to finish.

The 15 km châteaux route

around twenty-eight euros, rated 4.7 from 10 ratings, a small base. About two and a half hours over 15 km, self-guided, with the bus transfer to the start and a waterproof container for phones and keys included. The route takes in La Roque-Gageac, the Pendoilles cliffs and the châteaux of La Malartrie, Castelnaud and Fayrac — three of the five you can also pick out from the spur terrace at Beynac, seen here from below instead. Jeanine, from Germany, advises bringing swimming things and something to eat, because there are good places to stop; Melanie, in France, found the timing worked, with beach breaks to swim and rest without feeling rushed; Yann, in France, rated the equipment and the desk staff.

The honest note on this one comes from Anais, in France, who found the briefing and the directions thin against scenery she rated highly. The fix is small: ask at the desk before you set off, about the take-out point and how the shuttle works, and repeat anything you did not catch. The route listing in full.

Age, swimming and what to wear

Both listings set the same floor: paddlers must be over 5 and able to swim 25 metres, and shoes are required — not sandals, not flip-flops, not bare feet. Life jackets and paddles come with the boat and insurance is in the price on the three-hour rental. Sun is the thing people underestimate on an open river: a hat, a bottle and something on your shoulders. Anything that must stay dry goes in the waterproof container on the 15 km route, or in a dry bag of your own on the three-hour one.

Which of the two

The three-hour rental is the one to take if the paddling itself is the day, with a wide base of ratings behind it and dogs welcome on board. The 15 km route is the one to take if the châteaux are the point, since it strings four of them together and the transfer puts you at the top of the run. Both end with a shuttle, so neither asks you to paddle back upstream.

Most reviews

From Vitrac: Dordogne River Canoe Rental

★ 4.7 · 274 ratings

See dates & price

15 km route

Vitrac: Canoe/Kayak Dordogne Châteaux Route (15 km)

★ 4.7 · 10 ratings

See dates & price

Planning the whole day rather than the paddle alone? All five listings compared, or Beynac with children if the canoe is the child-friendly half of it.

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